“Rose”

Rose purchased her Pfaff 130 in October of 1954, and according to the receipt she received a $40.00 trade in allowance on her White Rotary treadle so her bill was $335.00 plus a small financing charge.

Factoring for inflation, that was like spending $4000.00 in 2022 and over the years she sewed a lot, and took exemplary care of her beloved machine, keeping the sales receipt and the lifetime warranty.

The Pfaff 130 is considered to be one of the greatest machines of the 20th century, beiong a high speed rotary capable of 2500 stitches per minute, and this 130 is also fitted with the optional embroidery module, sometimes called a coffee grinder.

It was fitted to a model 100 cabinet, which was the entry level model but still very well made, the Cosmopolitan cabinet was the top of the line cabinet and would have brought the price of the package to well over $500.00.

Most amazing was how smoothly and quietly this machine is running after 10 years of not being used, we have yet to give it a complete service and after that she will run even better.

Due to our busy schedule we won’t be getting to that until September of 2022.

The Singer 401A

Singer 401A

Christmas of 1957 was when Singer introduced what has come to be one of the most desirable Singer machines of the 20th century, The 401A was a mechanical marvel built to an unbelievable standard and in 2020 dollars this machine sold for over $4000.00.

The introduction of the Singer 401A did not come without some hurdles, as Singer engineers incorporated some design elements that already belonged to Vigorelli and Bernina, and some lawsuits had to be settled. It was around this time that Singer was also discussing some distribution deals with Bernina which got them in a little more hot water with the Federal Trade commission.

Building on the gear driven rotary hook system of the 201 and the slant needle system and drive motor introduced by the 301, Singer produced a really incredible machine with a wide range of built in stitches, as well as having the ability to use accessory cams. This is the stitch chart for the 401A, and 403A which followed it, being a slightly lower cost machine that used cams for all it’s extra stitches.

The 4xx series expanded to include the 404A (straight stitch), and there were German made variants as well, with the model peaking with the 431G which was a convertible free arm (and is quite rare). The 5 series Singers used the same internals as the 4xx series but got a different body and some slightly changed external parts, we find that the 4 series are a much more robust machine.

My mom said that back in the 1950’s this was the sewing machine she wanted but could never afford, as she was never one to put anything on a payment plan, if she was still with us and was sewing you know I would give her one of these fabulous machines.

We have several in stock now that have been completed serviced and are ready to provide another 65 years of service or more… as they are just that well made.

The Singer 201 – Perfection

Singer 201-2 U.S.A.

When the Singer 201 debuted in 1935 it was, and remains as the finest straight stitch machine they ever produced, although one might argue that the 301 was better by virtue of it being lighter and truly portable.

Produced in the United States and England for almost three decades it came in 4 variations; treadle (201-1), hand crank (201-4), motorized (201-3), and with a potted motor (202-2) and aside from the drive mechanism, they were all built to an incredible standard. There was also the model 1200 which was a commercial variant a much rarer variant produced in Germany (201D) and in Australia from parts sourced from the U.K.

Hand lapped bevel gears drive this rotary machine, and while many gear driven machines use grease, the 201 has a brilliant oiling system for all the moving parts. It is a total loss system where new oil flushes the old and there are oil cups under the main drive components to catch any overflow. the only place a 201 gets grease is in the motor tubes or cups.

It was the most expensive machine Singer offered and the base machine cost a few dollars more than a Singer 221, and with a cabinet the price could easily double to close to $300.00, which is over $3000.00 in today’s money. While the prices of the 221 have soared, the 201 can still be found for a very reasonable price unless it is an original hand crank as those always fetch a higher price.

Singer 201 Centennial – treadle

When used in a treadle the Singer 201 is one of the smoothest and lightest running machines ever made, almost dead silent in operation.

Singer 201-4 1949 (England)

Our 201k4 hand crank was made in 1949 and runs as sooth as a buttered kitten on glass.

Singer201k Mk2

In the 1950’s Singer redesigned a great number of their classic machines, and the 201 was no exception, except they were cast in aluminium instead of iron which made them lighter. Most often found in two tone brown, there is a rarer black variant.

The model endured until 1961 and was discontinued due to extremely high production costs, and a move by Singer and everyone else to produce multi stitch machines.

Singer 201-3 1947

This 201-3 was manufactured in October of 1947 and is currently being serviced in our shop, although the external condition was excellent the hook assembly had surface rust so those parts had to be removed for cleaning and polishing. If there had been any pitting we would have replaced the parts as a compromised surface finish will negatively affect the stitch quality and performance of the machine.

If you have never experienced a 201 in person, this is an example of just how smoothly they run, and as this customers machine had a toothed replacement belt, it could have run even quieter with a v belt.

Still… astonishing machines.

Happy sewing.

Singer 115, treadled and hand cranked

Our Singer 115 is one of my favourite machines in our collection, and one of my favourite Singer machines of all time.

Although it looks like the more common model 15, the 115 is a rotary machine which makes it incredibly smooth running, fast, and like the rest, it makes a perfect stitch.

I picked up a 115 for parts and while that machine is still sitting on the work bench in a totally seized state, it did come with a smooth running original hand crank which I decided to add to my treadled 115. It can be disconnected when one is treadling and for low speed precision work a hand crank machine just can’t be beat, and it works so beautifully on the 115.

Singer Featherweight 221 – 1935

What hasn’t been written about the Singer Featherweight ?

This small aluminium wonder debuted in 1933 and at 11 pounds it was one of the lightest, fully functional sewing machines on the market, and over it’s production life, they were sold in the millions (2.5 million) so in most cases, one could never consider them to be rare.

Some variants are rare, like specially badged models, and the wrinkle / blackside and tan coloured models and those can fetch thousands of dollars when they come up for sale.

The early models like this 1935 are a wee bit different as they use a different bobbin tensioner and have a different faceplate, and if this example was 100% original it would have a different upper tension unit. Many were changed to a numbered dial over the years.

The handwheel is a bit thinner and lighter, and I have found the early Featherweights are by far, the smoothest running examples, probably due to new tooling being used and subsequent higher tolerances.

School bell tensioner

People have asked if we are going to add this to our permanent collection but we haven’t decided on that yet, have always said that if I was going to keep a 221 that it would be an early school bell version…

Heavy Metal

Singer 191J – 1959

Folks often say that the the Singer 201-2 is the heaviest domestic machine they ever made and if you ever watched The Dressmaker, you know that Miss Kate could have never carried that machine in one hand like that.

Those folks obviously never picked up a Singer 191J, which makes the Singer 201 look like a lightweight, hitting the curb at 38 pounds in it’s wooden base with the pedal and cord included. With a naked weight just over 35 pounds… they are like a block of solid steel.

The 191J is a rarer variant of the venerable Singer 15, using the same oscillating hook and mechanics, packaged into a sleeker late 50’s body, that looks like a Singer 201 Mk2, which they say was made out of Aluminium recycled from WW2 Spitfires.

These machines were often sold to and used by artisans and tailors due to their rugged construction, heavy duty capabilities, and stitch quality on everything from silk to the heavy materials like the 12 oz denim I sewed a sample on.

Flawless stitching

Potted motor

Like the 15-91, 15-125, and 201-2 these Canadian made machines used a potted motor which is direct drive with no belts so there is no slippage, and no adjustments required.

Ideally one would fit this machine into a cabinet as it is not one I would be taking to quilting retreats unless power lifting is another hobby, at close to 40 pounds all packed up it is more than I am supposed to lift these days.

With all that being said it is a beautiful machine that is smooth, fast, and makes a perfect straight stitch, it also has a bed mounted feed control that can be adjusted to fabric weights and used for free motion work.

Our price for this chunk of steel will be $249.00 cad, with the accessories, case, and manual included.

Threads Across Time

I received a call from a gentleman this week who had been referred to me by an antique shop I work with, as he had his mom’s sewing machines, and was taking care of sorting her house as she recently moved into an assisted living apartment.

His mother (Anne) purchased her 301 in 1952 when she was 26 years old, and at this time this was a major purchase as the machine was nearly $300.00 on it’s own, and she also purchased the cabinet to go with the machine. In today’s dollars and factoring for inflation that was the same as spending $4000.00 today in 2022.

That was a great deal of money for a straight stitch machine but the 301/301A is arguably the finest straight stitch machine ever made, they are lightweight and full sized, sew at 1600 stitches a minute, and are built like a Swiss watch. After 70 years of pretty regular use the machine still looks and runs like new.

In 1953 Singer made a few small changes to the 301, adding an A at the end to indicate that these were made in Anderson, South Carolina, and a few decals were changed as later machines did not say “Made in the U.S.A.” across the top.

Her son said his father ran a second hand shop and his mom studied / taught Home Economics and was a gifted seamstress, making lots of clothes in a time when off the peg clothing was still a spendier proposition. She was probably just like my own mom in this regard.

He said his mom is doing well and that he would tell her that her machine would be well taken care of, and that we would make sure it found a new home where it might be loved and appreciated for another 70 years (or more).

Some times machines have no stories and then we sometimes find machines that take us back to an earlier time, and some would say, a simpler time.

Now that we have serviced and polished up the machine, I will have to send Richard a few pictures to show his mom…

Dear Bernina…

Dear Bernina,

Way back in 1945 you created the model 125 and it sold incredibly well because it was a beautifully designed free arm machine, it was portable, reliable, and could do a zig zag stitch… and it also had some generous harp space which rivals many of the machines made today.

It was the template for the 530 Record and all the machines that followed.

It has no electronics, computer chips, or flashing led lights or displays but still works day in and day out, without fuss or bother.

2025 would be the 80th anniversary of it’s introduction, and an anniversary model would be spectacular.

My suggestion would be to cast it from it aluminium with no internal or external plastics, to keep it true to the wonderful original design.

What do you think ?

Sincerely,

Keith

Spring Has Sprung

We’ve been away for a wee bit as some health issues have laid us low but we seem to be on the mend now… because of permanent disability issues I will never be at 100% but getting back to where I was a month ago is the goal.

Anyways…

The garden is starting to come back to life and the Creeping Jenny is always the first thing to emerge, some consider it a weed but it fills the edges of the beds and walkways and is not too hard to manage. It also seems to be very attractive to slugs so they can graze on this all they want, and they seem to leave other things alone.

A few weeks ago I picked up a wood lathe to further add to our shop’s restoration capabilities, although I can turn wood on the metal lathe having the right tool for the job makes things so much easier.

It is a 25 year old Craftsman 12 inch lathe that never saw much use through two owners and aside from not having a drill chuck, it was otherwise complete and even came with a 6 inch chuck, which was an extra originally.

One of the first projects was to turn out a new hand crank handle from some maple stock I had purchased a while back…

I also had a few orphan table legs and have been turning these down to use as they are made of Mahogany and here I am making a new handle for our stovetop popcorn maker which is about 90 years old.

I never took woodshop in school and most of my turning experience is in working with metal but there are a lot of transferable skills, it is still all about feed, speed, and tool pressure and angles, with a wood lathe you are much more involved and are part of the tool.

It is a good workout… whereas with a metal lathe it does most of the work for you.

Pearl is probably the most thrilled that I am getting back to work as she loves the shop and the music that sewing machines make when they are running.